Damage to trees can take place throughout the winter due to a number of cold-weather related issues. The tree damage does not happen because of the cold itself, but more so from the serious temperature drops and when the cold weather arrives in the trees ' dormant or growing periods. Other tree damages include the following: frost check, sunscaid, chemical injury from deicing salt, late spring freezes, and frozen roots. Luckily, there are a few methods to address these winter tree problems.
Frost injury happens when the tree is continuing to grow when the winter arrives early in the autumn or stays late in the spring. The frost can kill the tree tissue and most likely confine tree growth for good. Be sure to cover trees if frost is expected, avoid frost-prone areas when planting trees, and forbear from utilizing nitrogen fertilizer as it could make frost damages worse. Sunscaid can also happen during an early autumn or late spring. Sunscaid, or "winter burn" is when the conifer trees ' needles burn on the sun-facing side of the tree. The needles dry out due to the sun's high temperature taking the trees ' moisture when the frozen ground is limiting plant water. Buy mulch, wrap your conifers, and avoid scattering seeds of trees in regions with quick temperature change because these tactics can be useful. You may look for frost hardy trees that need less care in the winter.
The deicing salts used to keep our roads safe can essentially harm our trees and shrubs thanks to the chemicals in the salts. Salt desecration symptoms occur only in the spring; if your evergreen trees start to go brown and the branches die back, then salt might have been the cause. Well-drained soils can handle the salt consumption, but poorly drained soils will collect the salt over a time period and cause significant problems.
Late spring freezes pose a problem for trees and relates back to frost injury. A late spring freeze will also kill the new tree tissues when the trees have recently been water-soaked from the freeze for a long period. Freeze injury will appear right after the hard frost ends, but many illnesses can develop over the remainder of the year in the tree due to the frost. Frozen roots are typically connected with container-grown saplings and just planted seeds for plants that have been frozen for a long time. Shallow roots are most exposed, but can be protected with mulch, leaf litter, or snow cover for insulation. If frozen for too long, the plants and trees may shrivel and stop maturing in the spring.
Be sure to lower tree vitiation in winter by selecting hardy tree species that may resist winter temperatures, avoiding late season fertilization, keeping trees and shrubs watered during dry periods, and using mulch to keep moisture and sheathe roots. Keep your trees balmy and robust so that you can experience your own winter tree wonderland in the bitter cold temperatures!
Frost injury happens when the tree is continuing to grow when the winter arrives early in the autumn or stays late in the spring. The frost can kill the tree tissue and most likely confine tree growth for good. Be sure to cover trees if frost is expected, avoid frost-prone areas when planting trees, and forbear from utilizing nitrogen fertilizer as it could make frost damages worse. Sunscaid can also happen during an early autumn or late spring. Sunscaid, or "winter burn" is when the conifer trees ' needles burn on the sun-facing side of the tree. The needles dry out due to the sun's high temperature taking the trees ' moisture when the frozen ground is limiting plant water. Buy mulch, wrap your conifers, and avoid scattering seeds of trees in regions with quick temperature change because these tactics can be useful. You may look for frost hardy trees that need less care in the winter.
The deicing salts used to keep our roads safe can essentially harm our trees and shrubs thanks to the chemicals in the salts. Salt desecration symptoms occur only in the spring; if your evergreen trees start to go brown and the branches die back, then salt might have been the cause. Well-drained soils can handle the salt consumption, but poorly drained soils will collect the salt over a time period and cause significant problems.
Late spring freezes pose a problem for trees and relates back to frost injury. A late spring freeze will also kill the new tree tissues when the trees have recently been water-soaked from the freeze for a long period. Freeze injury will appear right after the hard frost ends, but many illnesses can develop over the remainder of the year in the tree due to the frost. Frozen roots are typically connected with container-grown saplings and just planted seeds for plants that have been frozen for a long time. Shallow roots are most exposed, but can be protected with mulch, leaf litter, or snow cover for insulation. If frozen for too long, the plants and trees may shrivel and stop maturing in the spring.
Be sure to lower tree vitiation in winter by selecting hardy tree species that may resist winter temperatures, avoiding late season fertilization, keeping trees and shrubs watered during dry periods, and using mulch to keep moisture and sheathe roots. Keep your trees balmy and robust so that you can experience your own winter tree wonderland in the bitter cold temperatures!
About the Author:
Southeast Texas Trees (LLC) provides distinct arbor care. The specialists provide key information that pertains to winter damage to trees, and includes when to buy mulch to give protection to the trees.
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